Though antique jewellery from the Victorian period is mostly associated with England, Europe, particularly France, produced much of it. However, based on the Queen’s personal life, style evolution, and inventions of the time, the era is divided into three sub-periods:
♦ Early Victorian or Romantic Period (1837-1861)
The early Romantic Period reflected the great romance between Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. Symbols of love and nature dominated the young monarch’s – and, therefore, the period’s – jewellery. Designed by Prince Albert, her engagement ring featured a golden serpent with an emerald (her birthstone) head eating its tail. This design symbolised eternal love and remained in demand throughout the era. Secret compartments, acrostic jewellery, and floral motifs were also very popular during this time.
♦ Mid-Victorian or Grand Period (1861-1880)
The start of this period was marked by the death of Prince Albert, which plunged Queen Victoria into a prolonged state of mourning. This led to the introduction of darker gems and more sombre colours in jewellery. Materials like black jet, onyx, and black enamel gained popularity. Cameos were another major trend that reached its peak during this time.
♦ Late Victorian or Aesthetic Period (1880-1901)
The late Aesthetic Period saw Victorian jewellery becoming more simple and feminine, as well as moving more from handcrafted to mass-produced. Light and small designs replaced heavier earlier examples while cheaper jewellery became widely available to the prosperous middle class. Stud earrings and diamond hairpins were all the rage, as were pearls and choker necklaces.